![]() ![]() My colleagues and students who also regularly use f/1.2~f/1.8 primes also have difficulties with AF accuracy with this particular lens on various Canon and Nikon camera bodies**. Even with stringent AF calibration with the Lens dock*. (I should note that the store I would actually use seems quite reputable, but other vendors are not necessarily the same.)įrankly, I'm more inclined to side with Digitalis's ongoing bad experience with this lens and his colleagues' bad experience on multiple platforms than Class A's unremitting defence of the lens which appears to be based on being lucky enough to get a good copy first off that nails it every time.Ģ) Do you have any problems nailing focus with these on the camera(s) you've used the 18-35 Art on?I still have issues with AF accuracy with this lens on my K5II Pentax K10D and loaned K3II bodies. Remember that the Pentax AF system has to cope with two AF lenses in current production that are f/1.4 (the FA 50 and the DA*55) and one that is f/1.8 (the DA50/1.8), so for an f/1.8 lens to give it trouble tells me that it isn't just about the wide aperture.ģ) After reading said staff review, there was no way that I was going to take a chance on this lens when I live 400+ km from a bricks and mortar store and can only receive or return the lens through the post - which potentially offers some unscrupulous person the ability to claim that it was transport damage rather than a lens fault in the event that I should try to return a bad copy. If shooting in live view is the only way the staff review could get the AF to work correctly, that's a significant handicap.Ģ) Yes, there are workarounds, but they shouldn't be necessary. It is in the nature of DSLR photography to shoot through the eyepiece, or we'd all go mirrorless. The problem is that lens betrays you when it really mattersĮnglish is not my native language so sometimes I sound like Tarzanġ) The staff review here praised its optical performance to the high heavens while panning its AF performance on anything but live view. Has anyone done customization over USB dock on this lens and managed to bring lens in a "usable" condition? Is it possible that we share this results and make some kind of comparison?ĭo not get me wrong when the lens focuses accurate results are excellent. Frankly, it annoyed me so much that it almost became a flying lens.īut there is no surrender In the future I will definitely strongly consider before buying Sigma lens. I have a USB dock and I really made an effort to adjust it according to the instructions(for K-3). For this price I expected less problems with this lens. **hopefully, with divorce rates being what they are.and all that Ashley Madison controversy going on.I sign under everything written. You need a high contrast, target for accurate repeatable calibration at f/1.8. To be honest: if you are buying this lens hoping it will perform perfectly out-of-the-box to document a once-off** event like a wedding this, this particular lens isn't worth the trouble, It is simply too unreliable. It can be downloaded from the sigmaphoto website.Įven if you do all of this perfectly, there is still a high chance your lens will never be absolutely reliable or accurate at apertures wider than f/4 Remember to stop the lens down, I know you probably want to use this lens at f/1.8 all the time, but the reality is at the f/4 ~ f/11 aperture range you will have a higher keeper rate.Īt least the calibration software is free. Get the Sigma lens dock, calibrate your lens properly with an accurate target*, and be warned that focusing on anything at a distance between 2m and infinity has at least a 90% of being out of focus at f/1.8 - and the bokeh from this lens is rubbish at that distance, it only delivers smooth results with acceptable consistency at focus distance of 0.5m or shorter f/1.8. Don't waste your time with in-camera AF corrections, as it is only really designed with primes in mind. If you do choose to get it, spend some time getting to know its quirks, and the situations where it is likely to be less than accurate. The lens dock will set you back about $100, a high quality polariser will also cost an extra $200.A proper lens calibration target will set you back about $80 The lens dock is the closest thing to a solution as you will ever get, and even then it is a band aid at best. Testing the lens is rather difficult, there are still optical centering issues present with the ART series lenses despite sigma saying otherwise. Buying a good copy is the ticket - but the chances of that are certainly against you. ![]()
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